Hi Once you have sanded back the wood, if you feel that you need to fill in the holes then the best product to use would be Osmo Wood Filler it is easy to use and sand once dry. Firstly, your site and comments are brilliant – thanks so much for a wonderful online resource! If you do have areas that are more sanded back than others there is a chance that you will see a slight difference in the finish so it is best to try and get the wood as even as possible for application. If you take a look at the products and read all the information and if you have any further questions please do let me know. I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any further questions. My apologies for the delay in getting back to you, a popular product for beams is a wax, they need little to protect, just a product that will nourish and add colour if required and for this you could have a look at the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish this will give a very subtle and natural finish. I hav sheshun solid wood sideboard and im lookin to do it in an all over medium to light oak can u help plz ty. The first product to look at will be a Tinted Hard Wax Oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints both of these will colour and protect at the same time so you would just need two coats of the product and you are done. Can you please advise me on staining a walnut table. Hope that helps -Sam. Hi, I’m in a bit of a bind and hoping you can help. It’s best to apply water-based products with a synthetic brush. I already have the oil, would it be best to mix a satin with the oil or stain first? we have a wood floor and after sanding it down maybe 1/2 mm a different base wood came through a more reddish one. If you leave the surface too rough, it will absorb more stain and give a darker finish and the smoother the finish, the lighter the colour. Many products will pool in to pits and gaps in the wood, but if you have a coarse brush for these areas you should be able to work the Oil/Wax out. It gives a more natural look and feel to the wood and can be patch repaired if needed. We have some great videos on our You Tube Channel >>> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7-tgwbsUxm73aVnAjLGHRA?view_as=subscriber that will help with product advice and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get back in touch via our contact us page. Hi We would nearly always recommend taking back to bare wood to re apply a new branded product as no company will gaurantee the use of another brands compatibility. If the wood is going to be especially exposed to sunlight you may want to look at applying a product such as Osmo Uniwax which, with regular maintenance, will help to prevent the silvering effect of the sun. Kind regards Neil, Hello Sam, Might the finished result turn out blotchy? Or if you require more depth of colour then two coats of the Coloured oil wood be fine. I’ve just been given some new doors which aren’t as red as the stain I’ve used on my dresser and I wanted to try and even the colours out. We had the base made up in kiln-dried oak and intend to leave that to silver up nicely. Jeez. What would we use on the boards to keep the color that we have now. Thank you. I can see there is a range of oil based stains that i can use however I wanted to paint the shed grey to match the fence. It is likely that you will only be able to do one coat of each with this product and for an alternative there is a stain called Driftwood in the Manns Classic Pine Stain range and you can apply as many coats of this as you like before finishing with a top coat of the Polyx Oil. The only way to remove these is by sanding the wood back. I’m looking for a darker, shiny finish and sliky smooth to touch. Or you could use a White Hard Wax Oil which will protect and colour at the same time. You could have a look at the Manns Classic Oak Stain. Test areas are recommended to get a true idea of the colour achievable. It has a wide range of colours that can be intermixed or lightened by adding water. Hope that works for you. I have just had a hardwood timber front door and full frame fitted. This would need to be removed in order to try to colour match the darker furniture that you have. Some 14 years ago the bare floorboards in the living room were covered with Sadolin Extra Durable Wood Stain (Exterior, Semi-gloss, Jacobean Walnut). I do not want to touch the lovely finish that is has so my question is this: is there a product (like a wax or polish) that I can apply that will darken the wood without sanding and staining. They are available in sample sizes and can be mixed with in the same ranges to create another colour or tone. 2. What else is there? Thank you for your inquiry, you could have a look at Osmo Wood Wax Finish Transparent which has a grey in its range of colours. I wish to re-coat my exterior west-facing softwood banister with as hard a wearing stain as possible. The best so far was the Danish oil which really enhanced the birds eyes but this made the maple too dark, more like orange than the pale yellow / butterscotch I was after. The least expensive, other than pine, are – in ascending order – ayous, ash, and steamed beech. To coats can be applied and the darker the colour the more UV protection the wood gets. It does not contain UV filters and so will still allow the wood to silver naturally and it will nourish the wood but is unlikely to stop cracks from occurring or growing. I would also recommend a first coat of the Osmo WR Basecoat as this will protect from mould, mildew and rot. You could have a look at the Sikkens Cetol Novatech and Sikkens Cetol Novatop this combination could give a very durable and long lasting finish. It is easy to patch repair should it get marked or stained. I really do not know where to start. Colour will depend on the natural colour of the wood you are applying it to or any treatment that is already on there and test areas are always recommended to ensure you have the right product for your project and the colour is as desired. I wanted to stain and varnish medium oak so filled the chipboard problem with Ronseal medium oak filler. Alternatively the Light Fast Wood Stain give a more intense colour and because they are a solvent based stain will not raise the grain. Which product could I use? The oil is dependent on how saturated the wood currently is but as a guide if the oil was applied within the last 2 – 3 years on a teak substrate it is unlikely to take further oil at this time. If you find that the colour is either too light or too dark on the test patch, there are probably things that can be done to fine-tune the final colour. I put a clear satin vanish on them (wicks own brand). Hope that helps. Hi does this mean its not solid wood and perhaps engineered? Thanks in advance for any advice you may be able to give. This will remove excess Oil that has not absorbed into the wood, but be careful not to over do it as you don’t want to remove it all. Internal pine doors. Hope that helps – Sam. Hi I wonder if you can offer some advise please. If you do need any further guidance please feel free to get in touch via our contact us page and we will be happy to help. As a starting point the Manns Classic Pine Stain. This is primarily a visual treatment- we are relying on the oaks natural resistance to achieve longevity. Thank you. Would you be able to email me with some images and details of preparation and application method. I have sanded them down. Wipe over with some White Spirit first to clean and degrease the surface. i am keen to help and look forward to hearing from you. Applying a light stain will simply maintain the colour that is already on there or even darken it slightly. Thank you for your inquiry. Which Varnish to use will depend on what it is you are treating. We wish to avoid discolouration and mould developing but maintaining the appearance of the grain through the stain. And for the top coat Oil a good option would be Manns Premier Top Oil. Hauskauf Franken - Alle Angebote für Häuser zum Kauf in der Region hier finden - immo.inFranken.de. The same can be said for pretty much any type or colour of wood when searching in Google Images. I would always recommend a test area first and the Hard Wax Oil is available in sample sizes. Choose some samples by the colours and not the names and do some test areas to see how these look on the wood, bearing in mind that a top coat product will also darken slightly. Rebecca. 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